Where to focus
It could be a separate article about a point of focusing but because physics is definitely not my strength, I leave the others to write more about it. In a nutshell, I usually focus on the detail of a scenery that would apparently be the most attractive for a viewer looking at a final image. It is either a dominating subject (if any really eye-catching appears) or let’s say a stronger rim of a hill. If there is not such an element, you won’t do any bad by focusing into the middle.
When you have focused, don’t turn the Live View regime off but expose with a mirror locked up. It stays in this position while shooting and afterwards helping to avoid unnecessary shakes of your system. It is absolutely necessary to use a remote control and a mirror lock-up (if you don’t have Live View), which is so basic for any landscape photographer that there is no point in talking more details about it.
There is still lots of users of DSLRs who believe that their camera does photographs by itself. But wake up, your gadget just gathers data and a final image is a result of your processing of RAW data. You may choose one of the two approaches, either the final image totally reflects reality or you process data in a way that best interpret your artistic intentions. For shooting with long lenses, it is necessary to gently add contrast that is usually lost because of the air humidity. To increase the contrast, I advise to apply Curves function. By repeated application of an open “S” curve, the contrast will be increased only in parts of your desire. The change in lights and shadows will not be so visible. When increasing contrast, an intensity of colors will rise as well hence no need to further use Saturation function.
Val d'Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
Ondřej Prosický | www.NaturePhoto.cz, Canon EOS 5D Mark II, EF500mm f/4 L IS USM, f/11, @1/8 s, ISO 100, 6. července 2009 6:43:15